The Golden Temple, Boarder Ceremony, and Amritsar: May 3rd-4th

On the morning of the 3rd we set off for Amritsar on an early train. After reading Chetan Bhagat’s 2 States, it was very interesting to observe the behavior and mannerisms of Northern Indians and compare them to those of Southern Indians. Annabel and I felt like we could distinctly tell the the difference and noticed many aspects Bhagat mentions in his novel.

In the afternoon we arrived in Amritsar: home of the Golden Temple— the famous pilgrimage site for Sikhs in India and all over the world.

We stood in line for a while before we boarded a packed, public bus to the temple. I had to stand for 30mins with my gigantic/ heavy backpack carrying both of our stuff—we condensed our luggage into one bag for the second part of our journey.

When we arrived we awkwardly entered the temple grounds in search of a guard who could point us in the direction of the “Foreign Tourist Rooms”. Like the Sikh Temple in Delhi, the Golden Temple provides room and board for pilgrims. They have a small section of beds in a room off to the side for foreign tourists on a first come first serve bases. The main room has a communal mega bed— consisting of around 10 beds that are connected— and three small rooms with 3 or 4 beds in each. Luckily Annabel and I got their in time to claim two beds in the large room.

After signing (an making sure that I was in fact a tourist) we set off to explore the compound and locate the communal dinning hall, which serves free food 24/7, before heading to the boarder.

Around 3ish we hired a taxi and joined the crowd people flocking to the India-Pakistan boarder for the closing of the boarder gate.

Every day at sunset both counties put on this fantastic show/ competition while they close the gate and lower their flags. It basically turns in to who can dance, yell, sing, march, and kick the best. My writing can not do it justice, but it was an incredible scene.

After the ceremony we headed back to the temple for dinner and sleep.

The next morning we work up early to tour the temple and left Amritsar to head even more north.

Delhi Round 2: April 30th- May 2rd

Annabel and I arrived in Delhi on the 30th and were over joyed to be returning “home”. We realized how exhausted we were from the first part of our grand tour, and how much we were in need of some refueling/relaxing before heading North.

On the 1st of May we did some touristy things in the morning, and then retreated back to the AC apartment of our dear friends.

We visited Humayun's tomb—the tomb of the Mughal Emperor Humayun— which has very similar architecture to the Taj.

Humayun's Tomb

Next we visited Ghandi’s Memorial, the place where Ghandi spent his last day leading up to his assassination. This was probably my favorite part of the day because I can clearly remember watching Ghandi in my living room with my father’s Leaders and Leadership  students from Bowdoin College every winter. 

Ghandi's footprints leading up to his assassination 

After the Ghandi’s Memorial we made our way to the Lotus temple— the a Bahá'í House of Worship. The temple is shaped like a lotus flower, open to all religions. and comprised of 27 marble “petals”.

Lotus Temple

Finally Domonique (the lovely mother of Annabel’s school friend who is putting up with our craziness) took us to a very nice supermarket while she did some shopping. Of course it was taste testing day and naturally Annabel and I went around trying every type of salsa, dip, and hummus multiple times. Needless to say, I don’t think we will be able to show our faces in that supermarket again.

On the 2nd Annabel and I slept in and had a lazy day before we departed for Amritsar the next morning. 

Five Kuick Days in Kerala: April 25th-30th

We arrived in Trivandrum, Kerala on the evening of the 25th. Instead of spending the night there— we were advised to move on because Trivandrum is a dump— we headed straight for the cliffs of Varkala!

In Varkala we stayed on the Southern Cliffs in a place called Bamboo Village. It was incredible, but Annabel didn’t do to well with the the wildlife— mainly the bugs.

On the 26th we headed to the North Cliffs of Varkala— the more touristy area— and spent the day just wondering around the board walk along the cliffs, which looked down over beaches and ocean. Varakala was stunning, and renewed our awe of the south Indian coast.

Bamboo Village

Sunrise over the Southern Cliffs

Sunset over the Southern Cliffs

North Cliffs Beach

Fishermen and their boats in the morning on the Southern Cliffs Beach

On the 27th we packed up and headed to Alleppey, known for its backwaters, and spent the afternoon, night, and morning on a houseboat. It was beautiful and incredibly relaxing. Here we had some of the best food of the entire trip.

Houseboats

The next day, the 28th, we again packed up and spent the entire day taking public buses to reach the rolling tea hills of Munnar!

Munnar was probably our favorite destination Kerala because of the low temperatures. It was the first place of the whole trip where we didn't need to use our fan at night.

We reach Munnar in the evening, explored the town, and woke up bright an early to beat the fog to see the tea plantations. They were incredible, green, lush and absolutely breathtaking!

Sunrise in Munnar

Rolling Tea Plantations

Looking out at the fog at the Top View Hill Station

Top View Hill Station

Rare sighting of wild elephants

Women picking tea in the morning in Munnar

In a quick turn around we left Munnar in the afternoon of 29th and spent 5 hours on the public buses getting to Kochi!

We arrived in Kochi in the afternoon, wandered around, ate, and called it a night.

Kochi is a lively, yet peaceful, fishing town/city with a wide mix of people. It has such a large population of Jews that there is a whole section city named “Jew Town”.

On the morning of the 30th we toured Jew Town, saw the Synagouge, the Dutch Palace, and more. In the afternoon we headed to the airport and took off for Delhi and the second part of our grand tour— the North.

Famous Chinese Fishing nets of Kochi

The Goan sun, beaches, and my first sunburn: April 19th-25th

There is little to say about our week in Goa except we spent the majority of our time tanning, swimming, and eating on the beaches of Palolem.

Our accommodation for the week

I got my first sunburn—peeling and everything!

On the 23rd we hired a car to take us to Anjuna for the famous flea market! The market was overwhelming and unbelievably hot— I don’t think I have ever sweat so much in my life!

Anjuna Market

Other than the 23rd our days were pretty similar. We were excited to be able to wear shorts and dresses.

We left Goa on the 25th and flew to Kerala— the southwest tip of India.

In the end we decided that the water could have been bluer, the trees greener, and the sand whiter— lets just say I prefer the beaches of Maine!

Palolem Beach

Palolem Beach

Seafood!

My two beach munchkins

Eating our way through Mumbai: April 18th-19th

As the title says, we spent our 24 hours in Mumbai trying as many different restaurants as possible because Mumbai is known for having fantastic food.

We woke up early the morning of the 18th and flew from Udaipur to Mumbai— I almost threw a mini party when we said good by to Dhib for the final time! We arrived in Mumbai mid-morning and went straight to our hotel for long, needed naps. The heat and bustle of Raj had tired us out.

Around noonish we got up and started our rushed tour of Mumbai. We saw the India Gate, The Taj Palace Hotel, and a lot of restaurants.

India Gate

We went to a famous market later on (which was actually pretty lame) and hopped on a moving bus— I can check that off my list!

Busy Market

For dinner we went to Chowpatty Beach and watched the sun set over the city with all the locals. This was probably my favorite part of Mumbai. The beach was crowded with locals gathering to watch the sunset, playing in the waves, and eating delicious street food.

Sunset and dinner at Chowpatty Beach

On the 19th included more eating and wandering around. In the afternoon, to kill some time, we went to see a movie in a local theater. The movie was an adaption of a book I had read by an Indian author and was in Hindi. The movie, 2 States, tells the love story of two Indians from different states. It was a great movie and even included a few Hindi dance numbers!

After the movie we waited around until 10pm, and then headed to the train station to catch our night train to Goa.

Night train to Goa

Udaipur— The Lake City: April 15th-18th

I decided to be nice and let Annabel write this blog post (more like I begged her to write it because I am too lazy)

So here is my one celebrity blog post by the one and only Annabel Surtees (and a little help from me because as it turns out we are both lazy)


Exhausted from long car rides and changing hotels every other night for two weeks we arrived in Udaipur, the city of lakes on the evening of the 15th.

We fortunately found a lovely guesthouse with spectacular views of the main lake and the city palace. And to Annabel's great excitement a gluten free and vegan restaurant at our doorstep.

We met our friends from Jaisalmer and Johdpur, as well as a few other, for dinner a few time and just enjoyed staying in one place for a three days.

We went on the classic sunset boat ride around the lake one night and drove up to the Monsoon Palace for the sunset the next.

Annabel on the boat

Sunset at the Monsoon Palace

After dinner with our friends the second night we met a group of Indian men and a struggling English author. We ended up hangout and chatting with them until 2:00am two nights in a row.

Our new friend, the English author, invited us to see the vote on the 17th. It was super exciting because this year the vote in India could be historic! It is possible that the Congress, the party in power for the past 60 years, could fall to Modi and the BJP! Our hopes of seeing protests, shouting and posters disappeared when we saw the orderly station where people place their votes. We celebrated the vote with our new Indian friends in a cafe called “Peace Eye Bob Marley Cafe”, chilled, sipped on mint lemonade, and let the lazy day drift by!

Voting Station

Peace Eye Bob Marley Cafe

Peace Eye Bob Marley

Mint Lemonade and a jam session

All in all, Udaipur was by far our favorite place in Rajasthan.

The Blue City: Jodhpur April 13th-15th

Annabel and I left Jaisalmer the morning of the 13th and arrived in Jodhpur that afternoon.

Jodhpur is also known for its amazing fort. However when Annabel and I toured the fort it was so hot and crowded that we ended up doing a speed tour.

In Jodhpur, near the clock tower, there are two omelet shops in competition. The lonely planet suggests both of them, but after taste testing I must recommend the one and only, "Omelet Shop". Annabel and I got two omelets and toast for just over one dollar.

The night of the 14th we had dinner with our new friends from Jaisalmer! We had a fantastic night and made plans to get dinner again in Udaipur the following night.

Annabel exhausted after touring the fort

When scorpions attack: Jaisalmer April 11th-13th

Jaisalmer is home of Raj’s most magnificent fort— or so they say. The fort was cool because it is the only fort in Raj with a mini town within the fort walls. Our first night in Jaisalmer we stayed inside the fort and wandered around the tourist, street shops. Jaisalmer is nice, but it is not worth the trek unless you do a camel safari and spend the night in the desert.

On the afternoon of the 12th Annabel, seven others, and I left for my second camel safari. I was a little doubtful about spending money on a second night-in-the-desert, but I am so happy I did.

We met other travelers from all over — two from Canada and one from Australia, Spain, Mexico, Chile, and Scotland.

Also the sand dunes that we saw/ camped on were incredible— the dunes rolled on as far as my eyes could see.

We had around six camel caretakers/ cooks with us who prepared us dinner and breakfast on the sand dunes. The food was amazing, but of course a little sandy.

We were all chatting after dinner when someone let out a screech— there was a scorpion just chilling on out tablecloth/ bed sheet. The scorpion sent everyone into a tizzy and we all called it a night.

In the morning I woke up to Annabel hogging my bed (which was a futon on the sand) and pillow. Later I woke up spooning Annabel, who in turn was spooning a rabid dog, who had taken up residence on our bed during the night.

After we had breakfast we saddled up and rode back to Jaisalmer, said goodbye to our new friends, made plans to have dinner with some of the other travelers who were also heading to Jhodpur, and hit the rode.

Jaisalmer Desert

Desert Sunset

Annabel's rabid, sleeping companion

I kissed a camel and I liked it: Bikaner April 10th-11th.

We left Jaipur the morning of the 10th and headed to Bikaner for the night— to break up the trip from Jaipur to Jaisalmer.

Bikaner was pretty boring, but on the way there was stopped at a camel farm (?). We walked around the museum, saw the camels, tried a pouch of camel’s milk, and I kissed a camel for 300 rupees.

My girlfriend and I

Jaipur, Macklemore’s BFFL, and an arranged marriage: April 7th-10th

From Agra we drove to Jaipur (for my second visit) and arrived in time for lunch. I was beyond excited to see my “Jaipur family” again and show Annabel around!

Our first night in Jaipur I took Annabel to a local light show in a nearby park and then dinner at my favorite restaurant: The Peacock Rooftop Restaurant

Two weeks before I life Jaipur for Delhi I met a 16 year old tuktuk driver. His tuktuk looked like something out of “Pimp My Ride” and he started playing a remix to Macklemore’s ThriftShop. Natural my friends and I started singing along and that I how I learned that this young boy’s father had driven Macklemore around Jaipur for three full days in January.

Flash forward to April 7th— I told Annabel about meeting this boy and we ended up calling his father and booking his tuktuk to take us from the light show to dinner.

Shabir, the father, told us all about his time with Macklemore, a photo of the two of them, and and personal from Macklemore thanking him (yes, I did see Macklemore’s personal gmail).

Shabir told us that Macklemore had payed him 3000 USDs for the three days, which allowed him to retire his old tuktuk and by the new, pimped-out tuktuk.

Before we left for dinner Shabir offered to teach us to drive a tuktuk, take us to local shops, and around Jaipur— of course we said “yes please!”

Long story short: we met Shabir on the 9th and he taught us how to drive a tuktuk (it was stubble central for me because unfortunately it was stick)! He also took us shopping for palm reading, and drinks.

During my palm reading I was told that I have low blood pressure (true), I have bad eyesight and will go deaf in the future (it is possible), and that my father would be more successful if he was self implied (hahahhahaha).

After the tuktuk driver took us out for drinks and I had my first diet coke in ages! During our time at the bar I ended up entering myself into an arranged marriage with his 18yr old son and Annabel became his girlfriend(?)— is was quite a funny evening!

Annabel, Macklemore's bestie, and I

“The Taj is incredible, but Agra is a dump”: April 6th-7th

At 6am Annabel and I hopped on train and started the first leg of our trip: Agra! We arrived in Agra mid-morning and were met by our driver, who we hired for our Raj portion because all the trains were booked. Alas, we were quite sad to learn that his name was not Ranjit and that he did not greet us with a “heeellllloooo” like in HIMYM— his name was Dhib and we soon realized he was not our biggest fan and vice versa.

As the title says, seeing the Taj was a breath taking experience, but Agra was not the nicest places— we left early in the morning on the 7th.

The Taj Mahal

Goodbye, Jaipur and hello, Delhi: March 30th- April 6th

Saying goodbye to my host family in Jaipur was so sad, but I was ready to see more of India. However, it was never going to be was to say goodbye to this rascal.

Gopi, Khushi, and Dupanker

I arrived in Delhi on March 30th and stayed at the Idex house for lunch before I made my way to my final destination that day.

My parents are referring to the next part of my time in India (April 1st-May 23rd) as “Molly’s Grand Tour” and that is a very fitting title. Thanks to Tahn, I have a travel buddy for the next 6 weeks! My travel buddy (and now a life long friend), Annabel, is taking a gap year between completing high school in Switzerland and NYU this upcoming fall.

We stayed in Delhi for 7 days with lovely family friends of Annabel, and one of the most interesting families I have ever met. The mother is English and the father is Greek. They have lived in England, Greece, South Africa, Switzerland, Indonesia, and now India.

When I was arrived at their appt I was in awe. I had gone from rural Guwahati, to middle-class Jaipur, and now to the most gorgeous appt on the 17th floor.

The appt house is filled with furniture and art from all over the world, along with books, books, and more books. I am absolutely in love with it, and the family.

During our 7 days in Delhi Annabel and I caught up on sleep (Annabel recovered from her jet lag), did some sight seeing, and met with a travel agent to make an itinerary for our “Grand Tour”.

*If I can only give one piece of advice for any further Indian travelers I would say, book your train tickets in advance and use tourist quota.

The coolest sight we saw in Delhi was the Sikh Temple. The Protonortairous’ driver Om, a absolutely lovely man, took us because it is one of his favorite places in Delhi.

Here we wandered around the complex, saw the temple, helped make chapatti in the volunteer kitchen, and ate lunch in the communal dinning hall for free! It was one of my favorite experiences.

Idex Slum Project: March 24th-28th

Katherine left to volunteer in Goa for three weeks on Sunday the 23rd, so I ended up spending my last week in Jaipur volunteering in one of the slum areas with Milena (my roommate from Germany).

I was sad that I never said a proper goodbye to my Elephant Village children, but I want to have as many different experiences as possible.

The Slum School has three different sections. On the first floor Milena and Katherine (from Germany) teach the older boys. On the second floor Monica, Leo (Both from Switzerland), and Beea (from Germany) taught the lower grades. Finally, a 5min walk away Sine and Sofie (from Denmark) taught at the preschool/daycare.

I spent my five days in the slums helping Sine and Sofie, and we all became great friends. I was sad to learn that they had been in Jaipur of three weeks volunteering with Idex and we hadn’t met until our last week in Jaipur.

We have already made tentative plans to meet up in Denmark someday!

Sofie, Sena and I with the children

Too cute

Again: Sofie, Sena, and I with the children

My Dog, Spot

I miss Moxie so much that I adopted a stray from the streets— Rabies and all!

Spot!

Spot eating a chapati

Spot drinking water

Khushi and I gave him water and Chapati once and now he has made his home at the gate of my host family’s house. He often walks me to and from the BMB sweet shop, and around the neighborhood.